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There’s a key moment in The Wild One, the 1954 youth-ploitation cine in which an outlaw biker assemblage runs aggressive through Hicksville USA, aback a starstruck babe inquires of their ringleader, an impeccably leather-jacketed, cuff-jeaned, scuff-booted, 1950s appearance figure Marlon Brando, “Hey Johnny, what are you rebelling against?”

Brando’s response, with a apathetic sigh: “What’ve you got?”

The abbreviate answer, at atomic in sartorial terms, was: absolutely a lot. The aboriginal years of the decade were a appearance desert, a buttoned-up hangover of adamant post-war acquiescence in which alike the maddest of men were trapped in grey-suit lockdown; but a abundant loosening-up had amorphous to action by the time Brando roared into town.

Rock ‘n’ cycle music, Beat poetry, and the abstruse expressionists were arch the countercultural charge, and appearance took its cue from their let-it-all-hang-out ethos; cuts became looser, collars absent their starch, and elements of sportswear, workwear, and aggressive compatible began to acquisition their way into the accustomed wardrobe.

This was a time aback some of today’s appearance staples – the turtleneck, the denim jacket, the knitted polo – were starting to appear into their own, beat with an air of advised nonchalance, if not a affront at the be-hatted accumulated drones. But conceivably annihilation symbolised the new, rebel-yell era added potently than the acclivity of the apprehensive white T-shirt.

Formerly a military-issue undergarment, it was aback draped beyond the decade’s best iconic chests; Brando got bathed in one in 1951’s A Streetcar Named Desire, while James Dean brooded in one in Rebel Without A Account (1955). Alike Arthur Miller was pictured in one at his autograph desk. “It became a affectionate of beheld autograph for rebellion,” says G. Bruce Boyer, appearance historian and columnist of True Style: The History and Principles of Archetypal Menswear, wwas himself a jailbait in the 1950s. “It represented the allotment of blue-collar accouterment for those wbanned to buy into accumulated society.”

Meanwhile, rockers like Elvis Presley larboard added academic dress codes, well, all befuddled up, replacing trilbies with glossy quiffs, ties with accepted shirts, and aged flannels with agile fleck-linen jackets. Jack Kerouac and the Beats fabricated a amulet of commonsensical workwear, both in their lives – in their checkerboard shirts and beat-up blouson jackets – and in their literature: “His bedraggled assignment clothes clung to him so gracefully, as admitting you couldn’t buy a bigger fit from a custom clothier but alone acquire it from the Natural Clothier of Natural Joy,” writes Kerouac of Dean Moriarty (inspired by real-life Beat hipster Neal Cassady) in 1957’s On The Road.

Leading the backpack of assertive artists, Jackson Pollock sported splattered denim overalls aback creating

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